Beirut’s
Art Scene by Sarah Rogers (Phd is the author of Postwar
Art and the Historical Roots of Beirut's Cosmopolitanism. She has
contributed to Parachute, Pensée du Midi, Arab Studies Journal
and the Art Journal.) Extract
from the book 'A Complete insiders Guide to Lebanon
The end of the civil
war ushered in a new burst of activity on the Beirut art scene,
which has continued to prosper ever since with any number of Lebanese
artists and Beirut-based non-profit arts organizations garnering
international accolades. Whereas local artists and critics are known
to bemoan a lack of public support, the city's art scene is one
of the most vibrant in the region. What characterizes Beirut's art
scene as different from say Dubai, is its range: decidedly commercial
galleries hold court next to those dedicated to emerging artists
(and patrons); non-profit organizations fostering experimental contemporary
practices offer an alternative to more traditional museum venues;
and a slew of film festivals fill in the empty slots between gallery
openings, museum exhibitions, and other arts-related events.
Before the outbreak of
the civil war in 1975, Beirut had earned the title of cultural capital
of the Arab world. Renowned for its welcoming embrace of a hedonistic
nightlife, Beirut also lay claimed to the St. George Hotel, the
journalistic hub of the region, a liberal press, and a vivacious
enclave of galleries. By 1971, the small area of Ras Beirut was
home to at least fifteen galleries. Today, the galleries are geographically
dispersed, however they nonetheless pay tribute to the diversity
of cultural agendas from the prewar days.
In the Hamra area, Gallery
Zamman on Sadat St exhibits young, emerging artists, displaying
an overcrowded stock room where potential buyers can sort through
for bargains. If owner Dr. Moussa is there, be sure to enjoy a coffee
and enlivened discussion about art. Nearby, but at the opposite
price range, is Agial Gallery (Abdul Aziz St). Specializing in contemporary
Arab art, Agial carries well-established artists with an emphasis
on painting. Hopefully, charismatic owner Saleh Barakat is on hand
to give you a brief tour through the history of Arab art. Several
prominent galleries are reinventions of their former prewar selves
like Galerie Janine Rubeiz (formerly Dar el-Fan) in Raouche. Those
in search of the white cube should check out Sfeir-Semler in Qarantina,
which exhibits contemporary Arab, Lebanese and international artists.
A number of non-profit
organizations have also sprung up thanks to local and international,
private and public funding. The most renowned of these ventures
– and the one that seems to have the most staying power-is Ashkal
Alwan. Since 1995, Ashkal Alwan, under the direction of Christine
Tohme, has organized exhibitions in historically significant public
sites through-out Beirut. In 2002, Tohme launched the now-internationally
recognized contemporary arts festival, Home Works. Held every 18
months, Home Works is an excellent opportunity to experience new
work in the region and includes films, lectures, performances, and
an exhibition. Equally significant for travelers in search of the
artistic and intellectual elite is Zico house, a fixture at the
cutting edge art front, which like Ashkal Alwan moves beyond the
conventional media of painting and sculpture. The photography archive,
Arab Image Foundation is another worthy stop-although more for researchers
(check out their collection online at aif.org).
The Nicolas Sursock Museum
in Achrafieh offers a more traditional museum experience. Nestled
in a quiet neighborhood, the Museum's beautiful gingerbread architecture
is a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of Beirut. In the
fall, the Sursock holds an annual exhibition of contemporary local
artists, but don't expect to find the same crowds as those at Home
Works-come to think of it, don't expect to find any crowds. The
museum is under renovation and will open again in 2010. Of note
for those interested in modern Lebanese art are the Gibran Museum
in Bécharré and the Ameen Rihani Musuem in Freike.
Those interested in antiques, should hit the American University
of Beirut's Museum, the Robert Mouawad Museum, and the National
Museum.
Travelers in search of
art will find little trouble in Beirut – whether it be wandering
through the galleries in Saifi Village, hunting out bargains and
potential investments at Zaman; or playing the artist-intellect
figure at Ashkal Alwan-sponsored activities. Most events can be
found in the pages of L'Agenda Culturel (available in newsstands),
the pages of the daily newspapers, or by just aimlessly exploring
the city and taking note of the posters announcing events that wallpaper
the city walls. In all cases, Beirut's art scene flourishes.
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